Show Isaac how to weld last Friday by today he’s laying Penny’s




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Had a pleasure of working with HSV W427 – 7.0L V8 – Piece of Australian history today – ECU dies after few minutes of running installed a brand new E38 PCM unit and coded in with ease car was mint with only 1700kms – still had the new car leather smell, amazing




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resetting procedure

  1. switch to on mode and press parking button 10 times
  2. switch ignition off
  3. hold the parking button on and switch ignition on wait until a wired/ long beep noise is emitted though stereo and then it is done.
  4. ignition on and off to test and make sure the green light stops flashing

Every now and then a vehicle comes in with a weird issue that you have to be creative and work out a new test method for working out the plan for repair,

The vehicle, came in with a fault code
P0340 Intake camshaft position (CMP) sensor ‘A’ circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor) Pending
the vehicle when cold would start and then stall, if restarted the vehicle would fire up and run with no issue at all,

Live Data was checked and it was foudn that the Live Data Pid for cam synchronisation would say yes and then in the next framde say no, which ment the vehicle, cut fuel and shut down, This was captured.

To confirm this the lab scope was brought out to confirm what was happening on the ECU Processed live data was what was HAPPENING AT THE sensors.

The Scope data revealed that the intake cam shaft missed a pulse output during cranking the first time it had not been started for more than 2 hours.

below the picture shows the differences, between starting and stalling and starting and staying running.

camshaft un synchronisation after sitting for 2 hours
Intake cam missing one signal when starting for first time after 2 hours
Intake cam correct and vehicle running

What to do next is Strip the engine down and inspect the timing chain and cam phasers and retest.

Floor done, hoist in now for cabinets along the back wall

Floor done, hoist in now for cabinets along the back wall

May be an image of 2 people


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The First block i saw being cracked was a FPV FG F6 (Falcon Barra Engine 6 cylinder in an FG Falcon)

This Engine – Ford BF Falcon GT FPV GT (For Those GUY’s) had been rebuilt many times over now, the last time was done by us and so much corrective action had already been undertaken.

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Protected: Hyundai i30 – Dash EEPROM

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Honda Accord CR2 2013-2019 battey sensor operation and testing

alyways annoyed that you cant find the info on how to test this stuff people never post in plain english

so heres what i know

P154A (battery sensor internal failure) stored. In this case, the battery sensor has an internal failure and must be replaced. 
here is the test steps

pin 1 blue = lin bus square wave
pin 2 red = battery voltage
pin 3 green = faint ground signal
yellow at alternator same as blue wire

SENSOR NOW WORKS WHEN THE HEAD LIGHTS ARE TURNED ON ONLY

THE BATTERY VOLTAGE IS NOW AT 14.3V
ELD VALUE IS 213.5 AMPS

BATTERY CURRENT SENSOR IS 15.7AMPS

WHEN HEAD LIGHTS ARE TURNED OFF THE BATTERY VOLTAGE GOES DOWN TO 12.3VOLTS NO OTHER WAY TO GET VOLTAGE UP

TST DRIVE VEHICLE TO CHECK ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE OUTPUT

WIRING DIAGRAM

both square waves will be the same
if not the same wiring issue
if the same alternator is not charging then the alternator is no good.
if the alternator is charging and the signals the same the sensor is no good.

Wiring on the sensor its self

Honda battery sensor – resistance testing with sensor out of car – this was not correct for my vehicle unless the plug is up side down (we are in Australia)

i have 2.75M ohms on both pin 1 and pin2 ??????????????????????

this is the 2 wire unit cant find a wiring diagram on my end

After all that here is what I have measured when I bit the bullet and bought a new one