Every now and then a vehicle comes in with a weird issue that you have to be creative and work out a new test method for working out the plan for repair,

The vehicle, came in with a fault code
P0340 Intake camshaft position (CMP) sensor ‘A’ circuit (Bank 1 or single sensor) Pending
the vehicle when cold would start and then stall, if restarted the vehicle would fire up and run with no issue at all,

Live Data was checked and it was foudn that the Live Data Pid for cam synchronisation would say yes and then in the next framde say no, which ment the vehicle, cut fuel and shut down, This was captured.

To confirm this the lab scope was brought out to confirm what was happening on the ECU Processed live data was what was HAPPENING AT THE sensors.

The Scope data revealed that the intake cam shaft missed a pulse output during cranking the first time it had not been started for more than 2 hours.

below the picture shows the differences, between starting and stalling and starting and staying running.

camshaft un synchronisation after sitting for 2 hours
Intake cam missing one signal when starting for first time after 2 hours
Intake cam correct and vehicle running

What to do next is Strip the engine down and inspect the timing chain and cam phasers and retest.

The First block i saw being cracked was a FPV FG F6 (Falcon Barra Engine 6 cylinder in an FG Falcon)

This Engine – Ford BF Falcon GT FPV GT (For Those GUY’s) had been rebuilt many times over now, the last time was done by us and so much corrective action had already been undertaken.

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Protected: Hyundai i30 – Dash EEPROM

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Honda Accord CR2 2013-2019 battey sensor operation and testing

alyways annoyed that you cant find the info on how to test this stuff people never post in plain english

so heres what i know

P154A (battery sensor internal failure) stored. In this case, the battery sensor has an internal failure and must be replaced. 
here is the test steps

pin 1 blue = lin bus square wave
pin 2 red = battery voltage
pin 3 green = faint ground signal
yellow at alternator same as blue wire







both square waves will be the same
if not the same wiring issue
if the same alternator is not charging then the alternator is no good.
if the alternator is charging and the signals the same the sensor is no good.

Wiring on the sensor its self

Honda battery sensor – resistance testing with sensor out of car – this was not correct for my vehicle unless the plug is up side down (we are in Australia)

i have 2.75M ohms on both pin 1 and pin2 ??????????????????????

this is the 2 wire unit cant find a wiring diagram on my end

After all that here is what I have measured when I bit the bullet and bought a new one

never a walk in the park with a vehicle that has 245.000kms

Fuel Trims Are Adding Fuel As The System Is Running Lean
Conduct Road Test And Found That The Fuel Trims Are Causing The Check Engine Light To Come On

The Fuel Trims Are Suspect That The Systems Has Air Leaks Of Air Flow Meter Fault It Also Shows That There Is A Fuel Delivery Problem
Disconnect Fuel Lines And Connect A Fuel Pressure Gauge
Found Fuel Pressure Is Solid At 300kpa, Slightly Lower Than Expected We Noted That Autodata Says(spec Is 300-350kpa) This Is Correct
The Same Engine In An Aurion Is 350-400kps Specification
So A Little Low There,
Cleaned Air Flow Meter And Fuel Trims Have Come Down From +35% To +20%
Carried Out A Throttle Body Clean And Upper Cylinder Clean
Put In Some Lifter Free Into The Oil Ass The Idle Has Slightly Unstable Carried Out Cranking Compression Test And Showed With Tolerance,

After Some Time Running The Vehicle The Fuel Trims Have Come Down To +10% To +15%
Getting Closer When Accelerating The Engine It Felt Sluggish,
So An Air Mass Meter Was Purchased And Installed (after Market ) It Was Found That The Fuel Trims Where In Fact Worse, So The After Market Crap Unit Was Sent Back And A Genuine Unit Was Installed!!
At Last The Fuel Trims And Acceleration Was Back Fuel Trims Average At +3% Mark

Drove The Vehicle Home 35 Min Drive And The Vehicle Felt Sluggish Again, Tested The Fuel Trims To See If Any Changes And Found That Fuel Trims Had Gone Worse Than Ever Back To +44% A Fuel Trims and Air Flow Meter Test Was Done Again And Only The Fuel Delivery Side Was Bad
Remove The Seat And Gained Access To The Fuel Pump And Found The Pre Filter Had A Layer Of Mud And Pet Hair,cleaned The Pre filter And Washed The Fuel Pump Bowl Refitted To Vehicle And Test Driven Again For The 35 Mins And Found The Vehicle Is Now Free From Errors, And All Power Is Restored At 200 hp

VE v6 Auto to VE V8 Manual conversion both vehicles series 2 VE

First thing to note if its a Series 1 it stays series 1
if its a series 2 keep it a series 2,
do your other mods after the initial conversion – or plan ahead.

These are some of the things you may need and need to know
VE Series 1 modules are not security programmed and will not need to be unprogrammed or unlinked to reprogram (unlike Holden Cruze)

TIP and tricks I’ve learned along the way

******Check all Hardware will match first******
******Check all Software Calibrations – will match what you want to do****
****** Dont Buy a cluster or have it programmed by the EBAYers – only half a job going on here – if you knew enough you wouldn’t have to ask them to do it******
****** Pick a vin with the same stuff apart from engine and transmission – Body Ute, wagon, sedan easier to pick the same one******

There is no way yet to extract the Security PIN CODE from any module (there are bypasses available)

Starting the Process

  1. Flash PCM/ Engine ECU to manual (you have a guy to tune your ride) (code Manual Vin – easier) (you can have security turned off) (no need to Pin code unless programming remotes/keys) There is no way yet to extract PIN CODE
  2. Flash BCM to manual (use SPS)
  3. Flash EBCM/ABS to manual (use SPS with manual Vin
  4. Reconfigure instrument to manual (use Tech2)
  5. Bypass auto trans computer (connect green & White CAN Wires)
  6. Fit clutch start wiring (plugs in below cluster)
  7. Fit reverse switch wiring and reverse lockout wiring (wiring diagram below)

1. Flashing The Engine ECU /PCM

Get a tuner to do the programming and remove security so the engine will start and you can drive it to workshop to continue the rest.

2. Flash BCM to manual

Programming the BCM
Important: The vehicle will not start and many other functions may not operate correctly if a replacement BCM is not correctly
set up. The following procedures must be followed:

  1. The BCM reprogramming – refer to Service Programming System (SPS). making it a manual with a manual VIN
  2. Brake pedal position sensor (BPPS) learn.
  3. Program SDM primary key to BCM.
    Important: After the procedure is completed, the personalization settings of the BCM are set to default settings. Inform the
    customer that the personalization must be set again.

The Bcm can be removed and VIN Number can be changed manually

3. Flash ABS/EBCM To Manual

If all your hardware is the same change the Vin and program to manual vin

4. Reconfigure instrument to manual (use Tech2)

Programming Features with Tech2

There a 4 basic types of VE cluster types A, B, C & D (‘D’ being the SS)

Instrument Cluster differences in Series 1 VE and Series 2 VE
– Cluster VE s1 White back on cluster (made by different manufacturer)
– Cluster VE s2, black on the back of cluster
Not interchangeable if you need to carry out programming SPS (can be modded later)
** Instrument configuration will not work if the EBCM and IPC do not have the Right coding to start with**

5. Bypass auto trans computer (connect green & White CAN Wires)

You have either cut the wires out or done a harness swap make sure the green and white wire goes to the obd2 port in series

VE s1 diagram
(cant be certain VE2 is exactly the same, no wiring diagram){so we will have to say that there is different versions/changes based on model level}

VF Diagram

7. Fit reverse switch wiring and reverse lockout wiring (wiring diagram below)

Little Extras for the VE

Engineering Mode,
Engineering Mode entered, by switching the ignition on while pressing the ENTER button.

  1. software version
  2. g Part number
  3. battery voltage
  4. remaining Fuel (Lts)
  5. Instantaneous Fuel (Lts)
  6. Coolant Temperature
  7. Speed (km/h)
  8. Tacho (rpm)
  9. Tyre Pressure
  10. Engine Oil Life (%)
  11. Park Lamps (on/off)
  12. Steering wheel switch Voltage
  13. Display of Gears (commanded)
  14. Throttle Position Requested (Pedal %)
  15. Transmission Sump Temperature (C)
  16. Self Test

Initial Repairs to vehicle

So your typical commodore having the fault light on and P0009: Engine position sensor bank 2 fault is displayed,

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Previous Repairs, and the short story

The vehicle was delivered to us after talks about the original issue with the vehicle, which was poor performance and fuel trims high +45.

During the Conversation about the vehicle it was decided that a new air flow meter be installed and the vehicle test driven to confirm the fuel trims are coming back into line (+ or – 6%)
The vehicle was fitted with a new aftermarket air flow meter and fuel trims checked on the test drive.

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Holden Commodore VE – 04/2008 LEO V6 Engine – Random stalling

the 2 fault codes present every time after we scanned this vehicle was

Engine ECU
p0850 – Park/neutral signal Circuit Incorrect.
Audio System
(fixed this one too)
B101d-3c – Ecu, Hardware Performance fault.

Time to get out the workshop manual and start testing the circuits.
we did find a few things online that did not mean much at the time but might help down the track

Diagnostic Trouble Code Results for B101D for the Holden Commodore (VE)
Diagnostic Trouble Code: B101D
Diagnostic Trouble Code Name: ECU Hardware
Vehicle Make: Holden
Vehicle Model: Commodore (VE)
Diagnostic Code Entered By: ZerOne
Diagnostic Code Entered On: Wed Oct 06, 2010 11:00 pm
Please Note: The DTC Information provided has been randomly generated.
To view the correct Diagnostic Code Information, Please Login, or Register. Diagnostic Trouble Code Description: Throttle position sensor (TP1) out of self-test range.

Possible Module Faults
Accelerator pressed during self-test when not required. (Possible cause, driver pressing throttle at or just after key-on.)
this does not state if this fault is in the radio or the Engine ECU

none of the above was the fault,

after seeing the vehicle week after week, when the vehicle was playing up the throttle was removed and it was found that the throttle blade was sticking, removed and cleaned out the pivots and flushed with carby cleaner,

refitted to vehicle and it has not played up since,
so dont worry about the fault codes they have nothing to do with it, just a dirty throttle in the pivot bushes, so removed the throttle body and clean properly and you will find it works better.

We have started to collaborate live data sets and possible control unit resets to vehicles as there is just too many variants in vehicles these days, and the live data at idle varies between models,


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